March 6

Tuesday is a class day.  And, this one included meetings and a delightful lunch with our London program director at a small Lebanese restaurant.  I have had some time to think about Barcelona and a few random thoughts to share.

First, here is one of the quintessential sights in Barcelona:  motorbikes. Everywhere.

Another oddity is the size of the fish.  The second time I was surprised by the size of the fish, I began to notice that my expectations were way off.  I ordered bass.  Now, in California, one could expect a two to three inch thick serving of white fish sans skin that might be the size of a large hamburger patty.  Not here.   Think bigger than the sardines we use as bait to fish for halibut but smaller than a rainbow trout.  Yes, that does not account for the head, either.

Here is a GENEROUS size serving of bass--bigger than my order.  By the time it is skinned and the bones picked off, I got about six small bite size mouthfuls.  But.  It was delicious.

I also found, in the Gothic Quarter, that most shops were operated by East Indians, primarily Punjabs.  Often Singhs.  Their English was the only reliable English in Barcelona.   On the streets and in restaurants, it was  unlikely to find fluent English speakers.  That being said, I found everyone willing to make attempts to decipher my pidgen Spanish/Spanglish with very good will. People were extremely helpful and indulgent.

My other find in Barcelona was jewelry.  Beautiful silver pieces and vintage maiorca pearls.  Both weakness.

The patron saint of Catalonia is Sta. Eulalia.  It caught my attention because the cook in our convent at  Mission San Gabriel was Sr. Eulalia.  Of course, as a teenager, it did not enter my consciousness that the "help" taking care of the domestic tasks for the teaching nuns were the Mexican nuns.  We seldom saw the "help" but when I was in 10th grade, the principal (Sr. John Dominic) summoned my friend Shannon and I to the office and tasked us with going out in the world to find a kitten that day to replace the cat that had died.  We took the entire day--of course requiring stops for hamburgers, etc. to find two kittens for the convent.  Sr. Eulalia cried when we delivered the little ones.

Long story--it turns out that Sta. Eulalia, the patron saint of Barcelona, was a 13 year old martyr who refused to renounce her faith at the request of the Romans.  They tortured her for 4 years and murdered her when at age 13.  Hence, the cathedral keeps 13 white GEESE in the vestibule in her honor.  And, yes, they are live geese.

I was delighted to hear from Patty that some of my O'Donovan cousins are tuning in to the blog.  Sheila, Cousin Mike (of the bassoon, not the pilot of airplanes), Honorary Cousin Barbara and Lauren, too.  Welcome.  If any of you have Cousin Mary Moodle's email, please send her the linky.  I forgot to contact her before I left.

Molly sent photos today that document my Dutch Iris at home are blooming as well as the daffodils.  Nice.  Mom is doing really well, too.
I have a ridiculous schedule tomorrow and then off to Prague on Thursday.  Hopefully, there will be internet.

Starting to miss my family and friends.  Be well.
All good vibes to you.

First Monday in March

March 5

Ah, back in Merry old England and happy to me in my little home away from home after a very enjoyable sojourn in Barcelona (Photos follow in this post).  After a very brisk walk this morning, I am catching up on work, laundry, etc.   

Yesterday, I came home from Barcelona to 30 degree rainy weather wearing the wrong clothes--no coat, no gloves, slacks and a tee shirt.  It was Freezing. Today, very windy, but  blue skies and dry.

These police officers were on patrol down the main streets in Belsize Park (pronounced: Bhal-suds Paw-k). 

I also get a kick out of the neighborhood watch stickers and signs which remind me of my favorite childhood book, Wind in the Willows with Badger, Ratty (a water rat), Mole and Mr. Toad.

Anyone who missed reading that Kenneth Graham classic as a child, might consider it now.  It is rich, full of life lessons about emotions and human nature; of course, one first has to get past Toad’s amusing adventures and conceits.

So, here is my photo documentary of Barcelona.  It is a must-see place, although it edges on Disneyesque in some ways.  A few too many people, a strange edge that is at the same time both comforting and dangerous feeling (perhaps because I was roaming around at night alone in a warren of old Gothic quarter walkways without a map).  

The food is excellent in really perfect, small servings.  

The Spanish take their coffee very seriously (TG): never had an “average” café un cortadah—always excellent.

Here is the little shop where we had coffee Friday before our walking tour of the Gothic Quarter. Notice the elaborate stairs in background.

The markets have more variety here than in States or London and make it pretty difficult to eat meat with any illusions about whence it came.

 The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Mar (St. Mary of the Sea) does not look like much on the exterior, but it is quite a spectacle.

The whole Gothic Quarter is amazing with parts that date to the Roman Empire still intact.  The history of the repeated persecutions of the Jews from the 9th century on was compelling and there are remains of the synagog from the 13th century.  The passages are just wide enough for a horse and carriage to pass through, yet the buildings are inhabited today.

This square in the Gothic Quarter had been renovated in the early 20th century by new houses which were covered with facades moved brick by brick from the older Jewish cemetery. 

School children were lunching on bento box food from home.

There is a plaster technique that is unique.  This building is in the square with St. Maria del mar.  

The Ramblas is also a one of a kind experience with kiosks of varied merchants.  There is a section of flowers. One of birds, and the tee-shirt souvenir kiosks as well as gelato and hot cocoa.

Here, in anticipation of Easter, one can select bunnies or baby chicks to buy with your parrots or canaries.

The five star hotel Patty found (using Starwood points in lieu of $$) was located close to the Placa de Catalunya which was ideal for touring.  The business center, however, had EU keyboards making it impossible for either of us to efficiently use--letters are in different places and the symbols are impossible to display.
Hot showers on demand were once again a luxury that I really appreciated.

Ever thrilled by the small pleasures, I was delighted to find my favorite sunscreen in the farmicia--I have not been able to buy it since Buenos Aires two years ago.  It does not sell in the US and it scentless, doesn't make my eyes water and has great spray on protection.  Ah.


The City has so many interesting sites, from those built for the 1992 Olymics to the museums.  It is really more than can be described and more to be visited than 3 days could handle.  Here are some of my tip top favorite places.
1. Sau Pau Hospital--a stunner but too large to get in one photo. 

So here is a rendition from the internet that shows its grandeur.

This is the National Museum sitting on top of a hill with a grand view.

The beaches

The public art including this by Paul Lichtenstein.

The extensive parks (which we did not have time to walk this visit).
And, of course, the Gaudi archtecture.
We saw the unfinished Cathedral

And, we toured Gaudi's Casa Batilo.  What remarkable imagination.  And, few things are as fascinating to me as tile work.  Well, this 9 story building has tile styles I have never seen.

Here is a tour in photographs.

From the rooftop working down (some climb up and down spiral staircases. Not for those with vertigo.

What I could do with this rooftop garden:

Flooring changes with each story and sometimes each room on the same story.

Details are all unique and creative.

It really is more engaging and amazing than the Hearst Castle in California

I have to admit that a select few of these 1% ers really did civilization a favor patronizing art, collecting and preserving great works. I say that with great reservation.


Now, I will post what I wrote enroute to Barcelona that could not blog earlier.
March 1 and 2.

First, yesterday was a blast.  Started  in Kensington Gardens with class at 8:45.

Here they are at the Peter Pan statue (several were a little late finding the party). 

I walked from Lancaster Gate down the serpentine walk and luxuriated in the weather and beauty.  So many waterfowl—including geese, swans and strange ducks—swimming in the river and looking very British.  Beautiful views—and fields of spring flowers. 

There are vast sprays of these tiny purple and white flowers as well as Daffodils beginning to announce Spring

The fountains at Lancaster Gate to Kensington Gardens.

Curtis at the Fountain.

It is about 1.5 miles down the serpentine walk with amazing beauty to behold.

Then I hoped on the bus to campus when I caught my glimpse—no sighting—of the Queen.  Our bus was stopped in traffic for her motorcade which passed no more than 20 feet from my window.   There were the Queen and Prince in her black Rolls wearing a little hat, a powder blue dress and a sweater.  It was a thrill.

Can't say why it was such a thrill, but it was.  There is no way a random bus would be allowed that close to the POTUS.

After a good class discussion on public benefits of open space and the relationship between “green lung” parks in cities, I made it to the tube for a trip to Heathrow Express and British Air.  Caught the last bus from the airport to Plaza Cataluyna.  Patty was already napping at hotel from her journey from JFK.

We have 3 days in Barcelona and then on to London where she has business for a few days.  Molly came to SoCal to make sure one of us is close by Mom this week.

Ciao

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