Reentry to the London Life

2/22/2012

It is quite a change to be back in London after the relaxing three days in Portugal. Something has shifted in the weather, and although London is still chilly, the days are a touch longer, the air not nearly as nippy and the winds are still cold, but not bitter.  It was a treat to be in warm, sunny Lisbon. It is raining sideways again as I write.

The highlights of Lisbon: wonderful, serious coffee; amazing museums; tile extraordinaire; friendly, helpful people; interesting architecture; and a slow pace.  It was enhanced by having a compatible companion in Nancy Harlan, whose mind works like mine and our way of being in the world is simpatico.

Some thoughts on Lisbon trip. 

The Monet painting: Ice Breaking Up, Grey Weather transported me out of body.  It was near the end—the second to the last room—of a wonderful collection at the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum.  The Armenian financier/petroleum engineer had ceramics from the Ming dynasty, tapestries from Persia and a huge collection of rugs.  There were fantastic pieces from the Far East and Europe, including a room full of Rene Lalique hair combs and trinkets with precious jewels that left me drooling. 

But that Monet did something else.  I stood and watched every aspect of the winter river scene while being overtaken with a supernatural calm that anchored the emotional rollercoaster that pinged me around.  Then I sat in the middle of the room for another 30-45 minutes looking more deeply into the water in the ice.  I was surprised at how a number of people came by the painting, looked and left.  For me, it was like listening to a musical composition—elaborate, engaging and overpowering.

Although it does no justice, here is reproduction:

In the same room were Manet’s Boy Blowing a Bubble and Mary Cassatt’s the  Sock which shows a toddler in his mother’s lap with one sock on—very touching.

Our little hotel was plain and adequate—although the room was cold at night. For 25 Euros each per night, we had no complaints--that included breakfast with real yogurt, cheese and ham.  It was glorious to have hot water on demand.   We even had a little balcony (below with our "view")

Located about a block off the  Avenida da Liberdade, we were closer to Restauradores Square than to the landmark Marquis of Pombal Square. The wide avenue had a wide pedestrian center with typical Portuguese stone pavement.  We were unclear how so many women were able to walk around in heels.  These are slippery.

There were two charming water features that flowed like rivers down the sides—and statues (Neptune?) acting as waterfalls.  Little cafes provided the coffee and seats to enjoy the promenade.

Eduardo VII Park is a huge one down the center of Lisbon—Nancy and I walked from the top down to the Marquis of Pombal Square where we discussed which city bus would take us to our destination—the Castle of St. Jorge.  As we decided on a bus, some waiting at the stand tried to tell us, in Portuguese, that we were planning to get on the wrong bus.  One elderly man gently pulled me back from getting on—shaking his head and talking.  Finally he held up 3 fingers, nodded and then held up 6 fingers.  We said: #36 and everyone smiled and urged us to wait for #36. 

The castle was accessible by cable car up steep, winding streets.  We thought the cathedral was the castle and disembarked too soon.  No worries, we lit a candle and found a cunning little restaurant for supper.  Fantastic meal.  Then we set out on foot to the hilltop.  The castle took up all of our Sunday afternoon as the views were spectacular, the ambiance was serene with peacocks roaming, cats sleeping in gardens, and toddlers and grannies with their familias.

These are some shots from the Castle.

On Saturday we had spent the day in Belem—the old part of Lisbon with more narrow cobblestone roads, hills and the modern art museum.  Here is the monastary built in the 15th century.  It is huge.

Not on our list of “want to do,” that museum pulled us in when Nancy spotted a piece by one of her favorites—Nikki de Saint Phalle.

It was an interesting collection of contemporary art with very good narratives about each style.

Some of it was disturbing. I wish I had my camera—which was in confiscated backpack—to photograph one post colonial painting that summarily captured imperialism and the European rape of Africa in a very graphic way.  The image will stick with me forever.

We also found the graffiti all around town was engrossing.  Here are three buildings right off the main street in central Lisbon. 

 

 

 

And the favorite for all times--a post-colonial comment that shows a man dressed as a banker or businessman. In one hand, he holds the globe.  His crown is decorated with the symbols of the conquistadores and international banks and corporations.  The straw on which he is sucking is planted in South America.  Need I say, he looks bloated.  Fantastic.

We were certain these were all graffiti rather than murals because of the technique--they were done roughly with quick strokes--obviously by a tag team who'd graphed it all out ahead of time.

We saw public art and tiles all over.

 The Tagus River is very important with many, many memorials and statues.  Here is a meager sample

 

 Lisbon is an interesting mix of old and new.  There are ancient buildings in the same block as the high rise apartments, the Prada and Gucci stores, etc.

 

 

 

I have a warm place for Lisbon and was very comfortable with the Portuguese people.  Good outing at just the right mark in my stay.  Being out in fresh air was lovely.  

Last night the AIFS gave a faculty reception for all the consortium faculty.  It was hard to mingle, but fun to get to know my colleague from CSUF English Dept and the two performing arts faculty from Wyoming.  It was in a tidy little square in a wine bar that sells Cuban cigars.  

This morning, I  took a long walk (longer than planned since the map did not have a legend) trying to get to the FedEx.  I walked through Belsize Park and College Crescent to West Hampstead.  Mission accomplished.  Laundry done.  Class prepped.  Mystery book picked up at the airport calls me now.

Ta Ta